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Saturday, June 4th, 2005
5:26 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #27 – The Dangers of Route Irish and a Devastated Economy Baghdad Dispatch #27 – The Dangers of Route Irish and a Devastated Economy Baghdad, Iraq - June 4, 2005 Disclaimer: This piece is a personal letter and does not reflect the policies nor opinions of the US government. For those of you who are receiving this for the first time, you can look up previous dispatches at: http://www.livejournal.com/users/christian_iraq/ The summer is heating up again as has the violence this last month and a half. Car bombs continually rock Baghdad and other cities, especially in the Sunni areas. The hope of this spring - the hope after the first free elections - has been tempered by the violence instigated to undermine Iraq’s new legitimate and democratically elected government. Although coalition troop casualties are less than last fall, the insurgents are now seen to target more of the Iraqi forces. Attacks on the International Zone have grown especially rare. I have not heard a single mortar or rocket for three months. There is talk that the reason for this is the almost certain death or arrest that awaits all who try to do so as the US military has been able to locate any attackers immediately after a mortar or rocket launch. In fact, the rocket attack that killed two Americans at the palace here in January apparently resulted in the rounding up and arrest of the perpetrators immediately afterward; a testament to the technological capability of the US military. However, one glaring example of a weakness in America’s might is the vital road connection between the Baghdad International Airport and the International Zone. There is no road that is more important no more contested. It is the lifeline for the political command center of the coalition effort here and it still cannot be controlled. For a freeway some 10 miles long, it is utterly amazing that the “Superpower” cannot ensure safe passage. “Route Irish” as we call it, is probably the most dangerous road in the world. This week saw a car bomb at the airport checkpoint. The last year has seen countless Improvised Explosive Devices and car bombs kill numerous people including Iraqis and foreigners. It was on this road where US forces unfortunately killed the Italian journalist. One can understand how events like this can happen considering the history of the area and the actions expected of the soldiers who are responsible for ensuring security. When I first arrived in Iraq in April of last year, we rode to the International Zone in a “soft shell” bus – it was basically the type of bus commonly used for tourist junkets. We did have Humvees equipped with 50 caliber machine guns but an IED attack would have been disastrous. Normal International Zone – Airport traffic occurs only at night and with a full military escort (50 cal Humvees) and armored buses called “Rhinos”. If you do travel by daylight, you must either travel in the military Humvees (I did this last week and rode in the back just below a soldier manning the 50 cal turret.) or by Blackhawk helicopter (I also rode in this recently and that was truly exciting. The doors were open and that dangerous road flew below us as we skimmed over the outlying suburbs of Baghdad with the hot desert wind whipping the loose seatbelts in my face.) The most obvious clue of the danger on Route Irish is the crumpled and bent fencing and guard-rails where countless explosions have rendered repair a low priority. No matter how bad things have gotten or well things have improved over the last year, this road remains a terrible and glaring affront to the Coalition. Over the last year, a notable shift has occurred with regard to media perceptions of the reconstruction effort. A year ago, the main criticism leveled against the reconstruction effort was that it was not moving fast enough, that critical time was being lost and that the insurgency would remain strong so long as money went unspent, projects went unfunded, and jobs weren’t created. Today, the reconstruction effort is being attacked for having spent money too quickly and without the proper controls, accounting, and safe guards. I had sensed this tension last summer – that there were two opposing drives to move both quickly but with all the necessary bureaucratic checks and double checks – somehow neither drive would be adequately satiated. Sometimes, a choice has to sacrifice one need for another. This choice is made all the more stark when your own countrymen are fighting and dying in the name of the same cause. Ironically, it was Bush’s declaration of the end of major combat operations on May 1, 2003 that technically declassified Iraq as a war zone and resulted in the normal strict federal regulations regarding contracting and acquisitions being applied (Federal Acquisition Regulation – FAR). I have recently come to learn more and more about the incredible challenges that the Iraqi economy faces. The state domination of the economy by a reckless and wasteful regime, three wars, and UN sanctions have completely devastated the country. What industrial infrastructure that does exist is extremely outdated and in almost total disrepair. The financial sector is a complete mess with domestic banks lacking sufficient capital to provide capital to domestic industries. The State-Owned Enterprises (SOEs) consume a large portion of the national budget with much of the subsidies going to pay unproductive and “ghost” workers. Private firms are loath to enter into markets where SOEs may undercut their prices with the help of government subsidies. The result is extremely unproductive labor, capital that is heavily depreciated, and product (if any) that is very poor of quality. What is needed is new capital and the massive amount necessary will only be available via foreign investment. Of course, foreign investment will not come until the insurgency is quelled, a constitution is written (this will help to secure private property rights), and the new emerging and more legitimate government adopts policies favorable to foreign capital. This is especially true in the oil industry where the refining capacity is very small. The absurdity of the situation is made plain by the fact that a country with the 2nd largest proven oil reserves in the world has to import practically all of its gasoline! The UN Oil for Food Program is another matter entirely. I am not speaking to the recent corruption scandal. Rather, I am speaking to the fact that every Iraqi is entitled to daily food rations. Although this has undoubtedly helped some Iraqis avoid starvation, it has also significantly helped to destroy domestic demand for foodstuffs and agricultural products. The food ration is made up of foreign food products so Iraqi farmers have lost a huge market and a vital source of income. The result – continued rural poverty. This is especially important considering that agriculture is the number one employer – about a quarter of the population earns their living from agriculture. Although, oil accounts for nearly all of Iraq’s economic output, it is highly capital intensive and employs very few people. Iraq must be weaned off of free food rations. At the very least, food rations should be made up of domestic Iraqi agriculture products. I could go on and on about the economics of the situation but I will leave that for another time. One thing I have been thinking about lately is how the Iraq War is now the formative experience for many people my age. Although this is certainly not my first major professional experience, I feel that I have really come into my own on a number of levels during my time here. My experience in Iraq is now part of who I am now for good and ill – for my case I think the former applies but I do know that not every expatriate serving and working here will return as better people or of sounder mind (especially for those who have experienced firsthand the violence of this place). In the end, we must have faith that it is all worth it. I still think so despite the ups and downs. The alternative is too frightening to contemplate. Christian (Comment on this)
Monday, April 11th, 2005
3:16 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #26 - Where have all the rockets gone? This is a personal website message and by no means reflects the opinions or policies of the US government. Baghdad Dispatch #26 Where have all the rockets gone? Baghdad - April 11, 2005 Just two more weeks and I will have been in Baghdad for one full year in addition to being outside the States for the longest period in my life thus far. Of course, I have not totally been isolated from home - after all, I do live at an American Embassy. But somehow, it is not the same. I particularly miss grilling baby back ribs on summer evenings in California. That will be my next big trip. Back home at last! At least for a little while . . . This may sound rather strange but I became very excited today at the opening of several fast food restaurants in the International Zone. Burger King, Subway, Pizza Inn (kind of a counterfeit Pizza Hut), and Gyro King have now opened their doors. In one swoop, this more than doubles the dining alternatives here. When one lives in a place like this, it is the little things that truly count. Regarding life in general, I can report with great satisfaction that things are looking up. The last couple months have seen a tremendous drop in the number of mortars and rockets being fired into the International Zone. It is strange but one has to actually has to make a concious effort to realize what is happening. People hardly speak about the decrease in attacks. Of course, when things were getting worse during last fall, everyone always commented on the number of attacks. Inactivity is difficult to notice. Apart from the general ease in tensions this has spread throughout the local IZ population, the lack of mortars and rockets reveal a trend that is only slowly making itself known; we are winning. What do I mean by "winning"? First off, the number of US soldier casualties has dropped significantly since the elections on January 30th. For instance, March's total was 40 compared to 127 in January. This is the lowest number since February 2004. Second, the number of insurgent attacks is also down significantly. The number of monthly attacks now is a third of what it was in the fall. Third, the popularly elected National Assembly is very close to deciding on all of the major government posts. The Speaker of the National Assembly, the President, and two Vice Presidents have all been chosen. Indeed, the President is a Khurd! This is a tremendous accomplishment and should not be blown off. Fourth, from direct personal experience, as I noted above, mortar and rocket attacks on the International Zone are significantly reduced. Apparently, the insurgents are either unwilling or unable to launch these attacks. These are all symptoms of progress. Are we out of the woods? Certainly not. But the path is getting clearer. May there yet be tremendous acts of violence? Of course. Will there be setbacks? Assuredly. However, I believe that we have turned a corner. Should we redouble efforts? You're damn right! And what have we done to achieve success? From my current position, I have seen records of the tremendous progress that has been made on the ground in the reconstruction effort. For instance, I doubt many know this but the local coalition military commanders are responsible for disbursing discretionary funds for basic infrastructure projects. I have have seen the lists of projects completed. They number in the hundreds and they include everything from repairing schools, hospitals, sewer and water lines, electric grids, and roads to building soccer stadiums, libraries, telecom infrastructure, and local marketplaces. I do not doubt that this relatively under-the-radar effort has helped to set things on the right course. Naturally, these types of successes hardly ever take the front page of the news. After following the media coverage and the books that are coming out on this effort, I have also taken notice of another phenomenon. I believe that media coverage has been largely partisan on both sides of the political spectrum left and right. I get the feeling that much of the criticism and praise of this operation is not backed up by objective reporting but actually reflects previous political leanings. This is harmful to public opinion in that it may be perceived that the good news is primarily coming from those who are prone to support the administration and its policies in any case. I am thankful that I am here as a witness and with my own healthy skepticism of both political sides to see Iraq as it is really playing out. Right now, things are playing out well. We must keep up the momentum. We must not play down our defeats and mistakes but likewise, we must not underplay our achievements. Christian (Comment on this)
Sunday, March 27th, 2005
11:57 am	Baghdad Dispatch #25 - Middle Eastern Revolutions? This weblog is a personal weblog and it by no means reflects the opinion, policies, and position of the United State Government. Baghdad Dispatch #25 Middle Eastern Revolutions? Baghdad, Iraq - March 8, 2005 I have returned to Baghdad from my last trip out of country. This time I went to Paris, France to meet up with my parents who I had not seen since I left for this adventure almost a year ago. We spent a great deal of time seeing the sites and catching up. By the time I left to come back to work, I was reaffirmed in my committment to our great effort here. It is quite strange but when I stepped foot back on the US Embassy grounds, I felt like I was home. Over the last year, this place has been the closest thing I have to one. However, this time I did not return with my former company. This time, I returned as an employee of the US State Department. I am now working in a totally different branch of the reconstruction effort, private sector development under the Iraqi Reconstruction Management Office. My job is to help Iraq develop a viable, transparent, and open equities market. Most of my attention will be on supporting the Iraqi Stock Exchange which started trading last summer. I will help to automate their trading systems. Additionally, I will be tasked with helping the Iraqi Securities Commission (the Iraqi version of the Securities and Exchange Commission; it oversees the Iraqi Stock Exchange and all matters relating to the securities industry) begin to fulfill its mandate. They must be empowered to enforce market regulations in order to build both domestic and international faith in the burgeoning Iraqi capital markets. My other tasks involve picking up any other slack in the office regarding small business loan program, micro-finance, and any other financial program where I can add value. I am very excited. After all, most of my professional experience to date has been in the realm of financial markets. In general, the atmosphere around the Green Zone is optimistic. As I wrote in my last e-mail, I believe the elections in January were a tremendous milestone and headway is being made. However, as one can see in the news today, progress is not just occurring in Iraq. I feel like the hard work we have committed ourselves to and performed in the face of great adversity is finally starting to pay off. Great changes are occurring around us and I have been a part of it. I wouldn't trade the last 10 months for anything. I wrote the following on my way back to Baghdad as I was staying in Amman and watching the Cedar Revolution run its course in Lebanon: The American writer, Hunter S Thompson, the founder of so called "Gonzo" journalism, took his own life last week. In the spirit of pondering his passing and being blown away by the events I was witnessing on Arab satelite television in the restaurants of Amman, my thoughts kept returning to his writings and one line kept coming back to mind: There was no point in fighting -- on our side or theirs We had all the momentum; we were riding the crest of a high and beautiful wave. So now, less than five years later, you can go up on a steep hill in Las Vegas and look West, and with the right kind of eyes you can almost see the high-water mark -- the place where the wave finally broke and rolled back. - "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, 1971." Despite the fact that he was referring to the American counter-culture of the 1960's and its eventual "high- water mark", I cannot help but place similar words in a totally different context, the wave that is currently enveloping the Middle East right before our eyes. Iraqi politicians are now hashing out politics like in any other parliamentary system. Palestinians have embraced elections and seem to be moving toward not only democracy but possible peace with Israel and an independent state. And now, in the past couple weeks, we are watching people take to the streets in Lebanon to protest foreign occupation and a puppet government. And of course, one cannot but help ponder what inspiration the Lebanese have drawn from their counterparts in Ukraine. Has the Orange Revolution paved the way for the Cedar Revolution by showing again to the world that tyranny can be fought by overwhelming peaceful means? What is the common denominator for these three possibly emerging democracies in Iraq, Lebanon, and Palestine? Oddly enough, they are the only countries in the Arab world (except perhaps for the Western Sahara) that are occupied by a foreign power. So how does the combination of sovereignty and democracy keep up the momentum? It probably begins with legitimacy. By the fact that any coherent movements are taking shape, they have legitimacy on their side since they are by definition, movements toward sovereignty. The Iraqi government now possesses an unprecedented degree of legitimacy since it represents the majority of the population and seeks to create a thriving and independent Iraq. The US and Israel could never totally isolate Arafat because the one thing he did possess was legitimacy both among his own people and the international community. Now that he is out of the way, a new democratic Palestinian government can take shape because it seems to be inheriting Arafat's mantle of legitimacy. The Lebanese government has never possessed any real degree of legitimacy due to its general weakness and reliance on Syria. What next? If these movements result in democratic governments because they possess legitimacy, how can it spread to other Middle Eastern regimes? Judging by the behavior of the "Great Powers" and the "International Community", the current undemocratic regimes actually possess tremendous legitimacy. Interestingly enough, it is on the domestic front where public opinion sways toward labeling these regimes as puppets of the US, Israel, and other foreign powers. Will people take to the streets in Egypt, Saudi Arabia, and Syria, after watching their Arab brethren achieve greater political freedoms? It must have been strange to watch Iraqis cast their ballots on Al Jazeera or even in person at the Iraqi Embassy in Damascus. Strangely enough the emergence of Al Jazeera in recent years may have in part laid the necessary foundation to keep the emerging democrats aware of each other and what is being accomplished in other parts of the world. For instance, I have seen that Al Jazeera has been covering the demonstrations in Beirut and I did catch one quote from another cable news program of a demonstrator claiming he was inspired by events in Ukraine. The question then becomes, why should we be surprised? After all did this not happen in Eastern Europe in 1989? Actually, what is particulary striking about today's wave of democratization is that every case of it is so spectacularly different from the others. The case of Georgia and Ukraine are perhaps similar with regard to the waning influence of Russia but the three cases in the Middle East are so fundamentally different. The Iraqis are gaining greater political power and independence with the enthusiastic backing of the Americans. The Palestinians are pushing ahead even during the struggle for peace with Israel despite some opponents who condone violence. And now Syria seems to be giving in to Lebanese and international pressure to pull out. But will the momentum continue? To what lengths will the insurgents go to defeat emerging democracy in Iraq? How will Hezbollah react to a proposed Syrian withdrawl from Lebanon? And how far will the US go to support Iraqis in their bid for freedom and democracy? How much support will the US give to an emerging and democratic Palestinian state? And what will the US do if Lebanon were to remain under Syrian domination or slip back into civil war? So now the question is not whether a wave of democratization is engulfing this region, but whether five years from now gazing out my window of the Sheraton in downtown, Amman, I will be able to see where the wave finally broke and rolled back. St. George's Anglican Church Update But for now I want to share another success story. As I wrote in one of my previous e-mails, my friend Ryan had organized a fundraising effort for an embattled Anglican church here in Baghdad. I know that some of my readers have contributed to this effort so I wanted to bring those interested up to date. A generator has been installed along with protective barricades to deter attacks by car bombs. Thank you to all those you made this possible! I have attached the latest update to this e-mail. Here is to a year of great change! Christian (Comment on this)
11:54 am	Baghdad Dispatch #24 - Success and Sacrifice Baghdad, Iraq - January 31, 2005 Success and Sacrifice The elections have now passed and the mood around the Green Zone is distinctly upbeat. Although the votes will take some time to be counted, the high turnout of about 60% is very encouraging. Clearly, the majority of Iraqis are participating in the continued development of a legitimate government. 60% is really quite amazing when one thinks of the open threats and violence committed against some of the unfortunate victims yesterday. Most vehicle transportation was prohibited over the weekend. The idea was to prevent the use of car bombs to close polling stations. The insurgents resorted to suicide bombers instead who turned out to be very ineffective in throwing off the election. So what does this mean for us over here? First off, it reaffirms our sense of purpose and reminds us that we are actually achieving something despite all the negative reporting in the media. Our hard work is paying off. Our sacrifices have not been made in vain. This is proof that the majority of Iraqis do not side with the insurgency and that they see the peaceful development of their own legitimate government as the way to address their needs. We still need to wait for the official tally and then it will become clear how much of the Sunni population voted. We will then get a better idea of yesterday's success. This success does not mean however that there is not more work to be done. The insurgency will continue although it has been dealt a serious blow. One can now say that the insurgents are not just fighting a foreign occupier but are now fighting an Iraqi government chosen by the Iraqi people. This success also does not mean that US troops can now start coming home but it is a milestone in that direction. US troops must stay as long as is needed to safeguard the development of this nascent democracy. This success also does not mean that Iraq, like Afghanistan, should stop receiving US reconstruction aid. Even after the majority of our troops come home, we should continue to provide funding for infrastructure projects, agricultural development, and economic development. Let us also not forget that $18 billion spent in Iraq does not just go into Halliburton's pockets but also provides jobs for Americans and stimulates the Iraqi economy. It should not be looked on as just aid but as an investment our country is making in this part of the world. Already, some of these investments have come to fruition. For instance, in my particular sector of the reconstruction effort, we have completed almost 200 km of rural village roads that are now enabling local commerce and access to schools and health clinics. This is despite the fact that most of these were located in Al Anbar province where the majority of the insurgency is still causing trouble. I heard another piece of good news regarding sewer projects in the Shiite slum of Sadr City. During the early half of 2004, this was a particularly dangerous area of coalition forces. Basic services were basically non-existent. The sewer system had ceased to function and raw sewage flooded the streets. That is now changed. 75% of this massive sewer project is now complete and the majority of households now have a function sewer system and their streets are no longer flooded. Interestingly enough, this has been made possible by the hiring of contractors who were formely affiliated with the Shiite insurgency. By giving them work in their own neighborhoods, these insurgents have become active and beneficial members of the community. This is a clear success story. We don't see this in the news, do we? Of course, it is hard not to let the bad news overwhelm us. I must say that despite the historic elections occurring yesterday, my thoughts were dominated by some bad news close to home. On Saturday night, a rocket struck the US Embassy and killed two people. I knew one of the fallen for I had worked with him on of our projects. I didn't know him well but I knew him well enough to be left thinking about his loss. My last memory of him was just three hours before he was killed. I had just come from the mail room where I had picked up my recently purchased Johnny Cash albums (Solitary Man and The Man Comes Around). I was excited to get back to my trailer to listen to them and as I sped through the office I ran into him. I told him about my CDs and how their arrival made my day. He laughed and said, "That's great Chris. See you later." Despite the two deaths, we were relatively fortunate. One of my coworkers was sitting at a desk that a piece of the rocket hit. He survived without a scratch albeit with high blood pressure. (The rocket did not explode.) Another two of my coworkers were having a meeting in the very spot that was hit just 5-10 minutes before. The most bizarre aspect of this tragedy is how random it was. These rockets cannot be aimed at a particular target. They can only be fired in the general direction of the International Zone. The man I knew was sitting at his desk when it happened. It was like he was struck by lightening. When you travels into the Red Zone, you expect danger. When you are sitting at your desk inside a building, danger never crosses your mind. Yesterday I was saddened by this loss but now that the elections have occurred with elections have occurred with success, at least I am comforted by the fact that this man's death did not occur in vain for he took the risk of coming here so that millions of Iraqis got the opportunity to have a say in their future. Christian (Comment on this)
Monday, January 10th, 2005
11:52 am	Baghdad Dispatch #23 - The Conditional Republic and the Babylonian Captivists Baghdad Dispatch #23 Baghdad, January 10, 2005 The Conditional Republic and the Babylonian Captivists Entering the Third Year of this Venture The Western New Year has now come and gone. The Coalition’s occupation of Iraq will soon reach its second anniversary. The elections are drawing yet closer. One cannot but reflect on what has and has not been accomplished here. Some parts of the country are relatively peaceful and are under the control of the central government. The majority of Shiites look set to participate in the elections. Given the radical Shiite uprising under Moqtadr Sadr in April and the ongoing violence in Najaf through August, this is clear progress. This is probably due to the fact that the Shiites are politically ascendant and will have the strongest influence in any emerging democratic system given their larger numbers. They also have a clear leadership hierarchy with clerics such as Al Sistani wielding tremendous political power and possessing great spiritual and political legitimacy. However, a great many Sunni cities are still not under any kind of coherent governmental control. Additionally, there is no real dominant leadership hierarchy. When you throw in foreigners like Zarqawi, the picture grows increasingly complicated. The voters in these areas will be subject to tremendous intimidation during the election so there numbers will likely prove too small to legitimize the Sunni vote. (I hope I am wrong about this.) If the Sunni vote is illegitimate, the vote as a whole also loses legitimacy. The Sunnis will then feel even more disenfranchised and the Sunni insurgency would continue to recruit new members. Clearly, the inability to put an end to the Sunni insurgency has been one of the primary failings of the Coalition to date. The reasons for this failure include but are not limited to the following: • We dissolved the Iraqi military after the invasion thereby throwing a great many Iraqis out of work and creating a disgruntled class out of the former members of this Sunni dominated institution. • We failed to show strong resolve early on in the face of this insurgency and allowed insurgent hotbeds to fester and provide sanctuary for the development of increasingly effective insurgent activities (car bombs) – witness our failure in Fallujah in April, 2004 and its continued existence as an insurgent stronghold through November, 2004. • We have not eliminated the insurgent leaders who have no interest in seeing the establishment of a viable Iraqi state. Zarqawi, a foreigner, plays a strong role in the Sunni insurgency and sees it only as a forum with which to attack the US. The development of a credible Sunni leadership capable of negotiating and dealing with the Shia majority will probably depend on the elimination of Zarqawi and people like him. As long as no Sunni leader is capable of rising to the moment and controlling the insurgency thereby guaranteeing security to Shias, the Shias themselves will see little interest in catering to Sunni interests. The recent high level assassinations have served to exacerbate matters as Iraqi politicians are now relying more heavily on foreign security firms. This tends to increase the perception of their being dependent on the occupation forces. For the last couple months, there has been very little civilian road traffic between Baghdad International Airport and the International Zone. This short road cannot be more than a 10 km ride and yet the “Superpower” is incapable of securing it against deadly attacks. Until a few days ago, we had to be ferried in and out of the IZ by Blackhawk helicopters. (This form of transportation is actually quite enjoyable.) Given the benefit of hindsight, it probably would have been best to locate the majority of the US presence at the airport instead of in the middle of Baghdad. This would have made our presence far less visible and would be of great logistical advantage given the current security situation. I still think our occupation of the Presidential Palace is a great insult and a needless point of friction. On the upside, mortar and rocket attacks on the International Zone have decreased. I hear this is due to the snipers we have placed around the zone and throughout Baghdad who successfully pick off would-be attackers. Given the continuing challenges and the discredited WMD rationale for war, one wonders what other motivations lie behind bringing stability and democracy to Iraq. My further adventures while on vacation in the Holy Land helped to illuminate further reasons for the continued US engagement in the region. Israel, the Conditional Republic The striking feature of Israel is the difference between the secular and the religious and no two cities epitomize that difference more than Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. However, in both cities, we found the Israelis to be extremely friendly and I think they have the most honest taxi cab drivers of any country. Jerusalem of course, has a high population of Orthodox Jewish sects. As for Tel Aviv, I do not remember seeing a single yamaka. Tel Aviv in appearance is very much like a Southern European city complete with good restaurants and nightclubs. The only reminder that one is in Israel is the fact that everyone speaks Hebrew. During our stay in Jerusalem, we were also afforded the opportunity to attend the launching of a new political party. Unfortunately, I do not remember the name but it is a leftist party headed by a rabbi that focuses on alleviating poverty and the inclusion of all Israeli citizens including Arabs. They are extremely interested in establishing peace with the Palestinians. Although, the rally was conducted in Hebrew, it was translated into Arabic and Russian. English was not an option. (Russian immigration to Israel has been and is very high – the common joke is that most Russians show up expecting to be given a Volvo and a villa along with Israeli citizenship.) As an interesting anecdote, during our visit to the traditional tomb of King David, we overheard an Israeli tourist guide lecturing about Israeli politics. He stated that Israel is a conditional republic and that when the Messiah comes, he will become king and Israel would become a monarchy. As far as the mission in Iraq goes, most Israelis we talked to seem strangely disinterested in our work. This was a bit of letdown seeing as we just came from Lebanon where people took a keen interest in the matter. Jerusalem Jerusalem was clearly one of the highlights of the entire trip. Its ancient beauty and holiness is marred only by the super aggressive street merchants and tour guides. Of course this is nothing new. We were simply the most recent of thousands of years of pilgrims to be set upon by these persistent entrepreneurs. We hit all the major sites save for the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque. Unfortunately, these are not very tourist accessible (partly because of the Muslim call to prayer that occurs five times a day). However, we did see the Western Wall (the original wall of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great), the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (where many Christians believe Christ was crucified and buried), and the Via Dolorosa (the traditional path along which Christ carried the cross to Golgotha.) As for the Western Wall, the Israelis have dug a tunnel along the old temple wall underneath the Arab Quarter where one can see the various layers of history from the Macabees to the Crusaders. This is a personalized tour complete with guide. They even provide you with a bodyguard at the tunnel exit in the Arab Quarter. The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is a must for anyone with a Christian background and it is jointly administered by the Greek Orthodox, Syrian Orthodox, Armenian, and Catholic Churches. (The Greeks have all the best real estate and the Ethiopian Coptics are relegated to the roof since they had to sell their real estate for food a couple hundred years ago.) The keys of the church are held by a Muslim family since none of the various Christian denominations could decide amongst themselves who should possess the honor. During the Orthodox Easter, a spontaneous flame apparently appears in the Tomb and Syrians and Armenians rush to capture it first. Unfortunately, this almost always results in a physical brawl. On Sunday, we attended a Syrian Orthodox mass conducted in Arabic and Aramaic (the language of Christ) and later took part in a candlelit procession with the Franciscans through the church. The chanting of Latin echoed throughout the dark halls as we visited the last 4 Stations of the Cross. I will always remember this procession as one of the most beautiful and spiritual memories of my life. Christian Zionists and Charismatics Besides Iraq, Lebanon, and Israel, I have also come to see how religion can also have a profound effect on American foreign policy. Upon reaching Jerusalem, Ryan and I met up with an interesting group of American Christian Zionists and Charismatics for dinner. Forgive me a moment to define these terms since I was previously unfamiliar myself. For those truly learned in these matters, forgive me my inaccuracies. Christian Zionists are Christians who believe that the Holy Land should be the homeland of the Jews. (That is not to say that this necessarily precludes peaceful coexistence with the Palestinians.) This belief is due to scripture and in part it is meant to be a prelude to the Second Coming and the Apocalypse. We had dinner at a Christian Zionist home and what I found most interesting was that there was not one reference to Christianity in the entire place. Rather, their home was entirely decorated with menorahs, shofars, Stars of David, and other assortments of Judiaca. I also get the feeling that this group has a great deal of political clout. I believe one of them helps to organize the annual Prayer Breakfast. In fact, some of our hosts went to DC to pray and “intercede” for a Bush victory during our Presidential election. Of course, anyone familiar with American politics is also familiar with the discussion of the Jewish Lobby and their effect on US foreign policy and its support for Israel. However, Christian Zionists also should not be left out of the discussion. As for Charismatics, I am still trying to understand exactly who they are. Therefore, I what I now relate may not apply to all of them but definitely applies to some. Charismatics are Christians who relate in some way to various religious revivals in the last three decades. One of them told me the Charismatic movement was started at the University of Notre Dame during a Bishops’ conference in the 70s. Later, there followed religious revivals in Britain, Canada, and most recently, Pensacola, Florida. Charismatics put a very strong emphasis on a direct relationship with God. (Although I think most religions tend to claim this.) In a way, it seems that they have stripped away a great deal of the “intervening” clergy. Charismatics also tend to “speak in tongues”. Upon entering into a discussion with one of them, I asked if this was the universal language of angels and if it can be universally understood by more than us mortals. Actually, it is apparently not universally understood by angels and no mortal can really understand much of any of it. It sounds very strange to the ear and I have never heard anything like it. Back to our dinner with this interesting assortment of people. I will also mention that the home where we dined was also decked out with very patriotic symbols including the American flag. Naturally, we began our meal by saying grace. This was not spoken by anyone in particular and some people broker out in tongues. After several minutes of this, we all sang the National Anthem followed by God Bless America. I had certainly never started a meal off like that before! Conversation started off around Iraq and Ryan and I told everyone what we do there. This was followed by the Charismatics telling us about their various visions and direct experiences with God – some of this can be initiated by a third person who simply prays for the subject. The subject will often times collapse on the ground and be overcome by the “Power and Glory of God”. One woman’s lips were burnt by this power and had blisters for over a week. During the Pensacola Revival, this kind of activity would happen for about 5 hours every night of the week. I asked them if anyone ever got hurt from falling to the ground. Fortunately, they had people stationed around the church to catch anyone who fell. The Power and Glory of God Captive in Iraq Getting back to rationales for continued involvement by the US in Iraq, the question becomes, what other motives might drive US policy or increasingly drive it in the future. What is striking about Iraq in particular is that it possesses tremendous religious importance for not only Muslims but also for Jews and Christians. Sites relating to Abraham through to the Babylonian Captivity are important to all three religions. In fact, Ezekiel’s tomb is located outside of Najaf in southern Iraq. (Ezekiel lived during the Babylonian Captivity after the Jews were conquered by the Babylonian King, Nebachudnezzar, in the 6th century BCE.) The tomb is located inside a 6th century AD synagogue and Ezekiel Chapter 43 is written in Hebrew along the top of the walls. The Shias of the area revere this place as being extremely holy. Given its tremendous relevance to Christians, Muslims, and Jews, I’m thinking it would be strong candidate for World Heritage Site status. Some of the Charismatic Christians we met in Israel hold a very interesting belief relating to the Babylonian Captivity. Simply put, some people believe that the “Power and Glory of God” traveled with the Jews to Babylon after their conquest by Nebuchadnezzar and that it did not return to Jerusalem with them after their liberation by the Persian Emperor, Cyrus, but stayed in Babylon and is still in Iraq to this day. It is also believed that the “Power and Glory” will be revealed when Babylon has fallen. Some believe that the toppling of Saddam Hussein represents this second fall of Babylon. I am not sure what is supposed to happen next but I am trying to understand how the return of the “Power and Glory” relates to stability and democracy in Iraq. For lack of a better term, I have decided to refer to these believers as “Captivists” in reference to the Babylonian Captivity. I am not proposing that US policy is driven by this train of thought but I do think that it is a factor and has the potential to spark even more interest among devout Christians in the US in the future. Where these religious energies are channeled to provide funding for the restoration of spiritually important sites and to help foster greater understanding between Muslims, Christians, and Jews, the upside is potentially very large. After all, we are all the children of Abraham of Iraq. To the promise of 2005! Christian (Comment on this)
Sunday, December 26th, 2004
11:50 am	Baghdad Dispatch #22 - To the West Bank Baghdad – December 26, 2004 To the West Bank Religion and the Iraqi Elections It is the day after Christmas, this being the second Christmas since Iraq was liberated. Tragically, many Iraqi Christians were afraid to celebrate openly. Almost two years after the US occupation and they are more afraid to celebrate their religion openly then they were under Saddam Hussein. In fact, one of my friends at work, also an Iraqi Christian, is leaving for Jordan with his family. He is one of many. Clearly, our hopes of a stable country tolerant of all faiths are currently not coming to fruition. As I stated in my previous dispatch, religion and politics are almost totally intertwined in this part of the world. Probably one of our larger mistakes to date is to push too much for the development of a secular regime in Iraq. The religious leaders, especially in the Shia camp, are accorded such a high degree of political power by the Shiite population that to exclude them from politics would be a futile effort. We must incorporate them into the political process but we must also try to inculcate a sense of religious tolerance. From an American perspective, Iraq is an inherently conservative society. Some basic degree of Koranic inspired law that respects all faiths but maintains the essential conservative elements common to all sects and faiths would probably be amenable to the bulk of the population. It will be interesting to see how Islam is referenced in the final constitution. It will be even more interesting to see how the US copes with the election outcome if it does not turn out as desired. A Grim Reminder The bombing of the mess hall in Mosul served as a grim reminder to our ongoing danger. In response to this incident, all civilians must be frisked when entering the military dining facility. Eating lunch is now like boarding an airplane. Convenience is sacrificed for security. Of course, this in itself is a victory for the insurgency since additional resources and manpower are now required to feed the military and contractors. Struck by this incident so close to Christmas, I decided to go to the hospital on Christmas Eve to lend my support to the injured troops. After giving away some magazines, I came back down to the lobby to run into a crowd awaiting the arrival of a VIP. It turned out to be Donald Rumsfeld. Upon arrival, he promptly wished us all a Merry Christmas. He was actually kind of short and looked tired from his day spent traversing the country. Back to wrapping up my adventures traversing the Middle East . . . My Endorsement of Lebanon In finishing up my adventures in Lebanon from my last dispatch, I wanted to reiterate my great fondness for the country and its people. Despite the shadow of possible war in the future, I think the place has enormous potential, especially to be the next party capital and music scene. I found the Lebanese to be extremely interested in all forms of music from Yugoslavian gypsy bands and classical Lebanese Arabic singing to Trance, House, and Rock’n’Roll. Its anarchic, materialistic, and European flavor lends itself well to weekend getaways from the Continent. Granted, in many respects, it would simply be reclaiming its lost glory from before the war, but it could also serve as an alternate window into the Middle East, especially if Syria experiences “Regime Change” or opens up politically and economically. A simple analogy might be that if Dubai is the Las Vegas of the Middle East, then Beirut is the New Orleans. Lessons from the West Bank Our travels next took us to the Holy Land. Ryan and I flew from Amman, Jordan to Tel Aviv. This had to be one of the shortest but most interesting flights I have ever taken. We flew right over the Jordan River Valley and the West Bank. From that height, one could pick out the numerous Jewish settlements and Palestinian villages. The settlements tended to top the hills and looked extremely orderly while the Palestinian villages tended to reside in the valleys and looked more haphazard. A few days later, we traveled into the West Bank to go to Bethlehem and the Church of the Nativity. There were no tourists. The Intifada had driven them all away. The locals were clearly hurting. The Church of the Nativity itself was very pretty and they have marked the spot where Christ came into the world and where he lay in the manger. The following day, we traveled to Ramallah to see Arafat’s compound and tomb (he had died just two weeks previously). The compound was half in ruins and there was a large heap of destroyed cars. Guards stood at his tomb just outside the compound. There were many photographs of the former president. There were also many wreathes. There was even a wreath from UNICEF. We thanked the guards as we left and they seemed happy that we made it to pay our respects. Despite his obvious failings, one must certainly give him credit for instilling a sense of nationhood and unity among the Palestinians. One of the more interesting rumors we heard about his death is that he may have converted to Christianity before the end. Imagine the monkey wrench that would throw into regional politics should it turn out to be true and publicized! The general feeling now, at least among the Palestinians that we spoke to, is that peace with the Israelis is now more possible since his death. It seems that perhaps a degree of optimism is present. Our guide during these travels was a Christian Palestinian. He was quite proud to take us to Ramallah and even treated us to tea and baklava at one of the nicest restaurants in town. Ramallah is actually pretty pleasant for it is apparently the wealthiest Palestinian town. We were told the poorest Palestinian areas are in Gaza. One of the more interesting sights occurred at night as we drove back through the West Bank toward Jerusalem. The Jewish settlements were all extremely well lit and with ample sources of power. The Palestinian villages, on the other hand, were with barely any light at all. I also want to point out that despite the obvious failings of the peace process to date, there is an ongoing drive on the part of religious leaders from both sides to bridge the gap. They are trying to succeed where the politicians have failed. We had the opportunity to meet one of the prominent Palestinian politicians involved in this process. However, one of the problems is finding the necessary funding. The Great Powers who proclaim to have an interest in solving this conflict should take note and perhaps diversify their strategies. Despite the challenges, I think this informal religious approach can also be used in Iraq. Where the secular Iraqi politicians fail, we must succeed elsewhere. This is especially important considering that the Iraqi elections may not prove decisive in legitimizing the government and restoring stability. In looking to better times ahead, Happy New Year! Christian (Comment on this)
Tuesday, December 14th, 2004
5:07 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #21 From Iraq to Lebanon Baghdad Dispatch #21 From Iraq to Lebanon Baghdad – December 14, 2004 It is officially the holiday season in the International Zone. The office has all the trappings of Christmas lights and wreathes just like back home. It is as if I have come back from vacation to a different world. Even the weather has changed and one must now bundle up for fear of catching cold. The good news is that although car bombs have exploded at the gates to the International Zone almost daily now, at least the mortars and rockets are not as common. I am still very amazed that so many Iraqis come to work here considering the dangers of just waiting at the gate. I left for vacation in mid-November and returned only a few days ago. I apologize for my lengthy respite between writings. My travels took me to Jordan, Lebanon, Israel, and the West Bank. As a result of the people I met and the things I saw, I feel I can better place both Iraq and our current venture here in a better context. I may not capture all of my experience in the last month in this one e-mail but will carry on in the next dispatch. I did not take this trip alone. I was accompanied by my friend, Ryan, whose greater learning in theological matters helped to complement my historical knowledge of the region. (I’ve been captivated by Middle Eastern history for the past several years.) The trip started off darkly enough. We took a Personal Security Detail to the military airbase in Baghdad complete with armored SUVs and South African gunners. We arrived safe and sound but within 20 minutes of us having reached the airport, a convoy was hit behind us resulting in the death of Lebanese Christian security contractor. I had actually met the man previously as many Lebanese Christians guarded my earlier living quarters and my office. The man’s funeral was later held in Lebanon while we were there. A C-130 then took us to Amman, Jordan where we cheered along with all the other weary expatriates just happy to be out of a combat zone. Unfortunately, we arrived at the passenger terminal just after Jordanian customs had shut down for the evening. With no one to stop us, we walked right through the terminal and out into the front parking lot. Just as one of us was about to step into a taxi and speed off, the Jordanian customs officials came running out and pleaded for us to step back into the terminal so that we could enter the country properly. I only hope their Iraqi border is more secure! After this misadventure, we spent an evening in Amman just rejoicing to be free of falling mortars. As far as I could tell, there is not a terribly exciting nightlife in Amman (although I may be wrong) but there are some good restaurants and besides, just walking down the street without a flak jacket and helmet is step up after Baghdad. Eager to get started on the next leg of our adventure, we flew to Beirut the next evening where we checked into a nice hotel in the Christian part of town. I know it may come off as strange to some as I refer to Christians, Muslims, and Jews or Christian, Muslim, and Jewish areas. As I slowly realized in Baghdad and what became more apparent as we traveled in Lebanon, Israel, and the West Bank is that religion and politics are incredibly intertwined. Politicians may not necessarily be religious leaders but almost all religious leaders are politicians. Additionally, being a Christian, Muslim, or Jew does not so much refer to one’s personal belief in Christ, the teachings of Mohammed, or Jewish law but rather refers to one’s community and may be the nominal foundation of the political entities of which one is a part. Although we spent our time in Lebanon almost entirely with Lebanese Christians, I shall attempt to relate what I came to learn of the country and fit it into the context of our current struggle in Iraq. With regard to Beirut, the political faults reflect religion. The primary groups in Lebanon consist of the following: Christians – They make up about a third of the population and are mostly Maronite Catholic. The Catholics seem to make up the majority of the ruling class and dominate most of the business environment in Beirut. This ruling class speaks French as its first language and is strongly connected with the Lebanese Christian Diaspora. Armenians and Syrian Orthodox Christians also form a contingent and of course, there are many Christians who served in the Christian militias during the civil war. The Christians generally have a heavy distrust of the Lebanese government which they see as being a puppet of Syria. They are also heavily supportive of US policy in the Middle East including the war in Iraq and are glad to see President Bush re-elected. Shiites – They also make up about a third of the population. Hezbollah still has a strong following among this group partly because of a social welfare system that has been instituted by this party in attempt to make up for the weakness of the Lebanese state. They are generally pro-Syrian and are supportive of the Syrian presence in Lebanon. Naturally, they are heavily anti-Israeli and derive both moral and financial support from Iran. The Ayatollah Komeini’s portrait can still be seen hanging from street signs. I even think I caught a glimpse of a portrait of Moqtada Sadr! The latest buzz was that Hezbollah actually managed to recently pull off an unmanned reconnaissance drone sortie into Israeli airspace. Some say they did it with Iranian help. Others say that they did it on their own. Sunnis – They too make up about a third of the population. Unfortunately I did not learn too much about them. I was under the perception that they have a very limited presence in Beirut. Druze – They make up a small percentage of the population but are highly visible. Although technically Muslim by most standards, their beliefs are very unique and as a community, they are very inward looking. I get the feeling that very few outsiders really understand their religion or culture. I have heard that they believe in 5 main prophets of which Socrates is one. I have also heard that the Druze themselves are not revealed the fundamentals of their faith until they reach the age of 40. However, these are all stories I have heard secondhand. Palestinian Refugees – They are estimated to number about 300,000 and are mostly Sunni but with some Christian minorities. I believe most of them came to Lebanon during the Israeli War for Independence in 1948. They are on the very bottom of the political pyramid and their living conditions, at least in Beirut, are wretched. We drove through the camp at Sabra in Beirut where there is a cemetery and makeshift monument to the infamous and disputed events in 1982 where many say that Ariel Sharon oversaw the massacre of Palestinian refugees with the help of the Christian militias. The future of these people is always in doubt. Certainly, the Christians want them expelled since they see them as a strong destabilizing influence and responsible for much of the civil war. Syrian Presence – Syria currently has about 20,000 soldiers in Lebanon but they are stationed in less visible but strategic locations. Syrian agents still roam the country and apparently can be found in Beirut. There is one hotel that is rumored to be the headquarters for Syrian intelligence in the country. In fact, I ran into a Syrian government official in one of Beirut’s many happening nightclubs. It was unfortunate that he was determined to discuss politics. The funny thing is that the Christians are pretty much openly defiant of the Syrian presence. They do hold demonstrations and Syrians are the butt of many jokes. In fact, there does not seem to be any real fear of them, at least in the Christian areas, where people discuss politics openly. Given the history and political needs and inspirations of these various groups, it is not too difficult to see how war makes up so much of the recent history of this country. When you throw in the intervention of the Syrians and Israelis, it becomes even easier. What is amazing about the place, and especially about Beirut, is the willingness of the people to carry on and rebuild their country. Beirut has seen a great deal of investment in recent years including, real estate, hotels, restaurants, gyms, and clubs. I found myself wondering if a pop in the bubble might not be too far off. As one cruises around Downtown and East Beirut (East Beirut is Christian and West Beirut is Muslim), one will find chic restaurants, clubs, and hotels in sparkling new buildings beside bombed out and shot up remnants from before the war. It is almost as if the place is either at war or just on the edge of war. The present therefore becomes more important. At least as far as the upper and middle class Christians are concerned, the predominant philosophy seems to embrace the material world as much as possible. This in turn, is reflected in expensive cars, opulent nightclubs, a myriad of expensive gadgets including phones, and many numbers on your license plate for which you pay a great deal of money. With regard to war, my friends who are former members of the Christian militia seem to think it may very well happen again. In fact, it seems that some would like the chance to get back at the Muslims and reestablish Christian dominance of the country. There is still hatred in some of their hearts for during the war, they both suffered and inflicted great pain. Then there are those who have suffered something else altogether. As of one of my Lebanese friends put it, “My heart is dead.” The death of the heart is generally an unspoken cost of conflict. Besides all the economic, environmental, and social costs let alone the loss of life, it is, as one would say in economic terms, an externatility. One I am afraid can never be captured. On that note, despite this dispatch being dominated by Lebanon, I hope that it helps to render a new light on our current struggle in Iraq. I don’t want this newsletter to be too lengthy so I will continue on soon enough in my next dispatch. I do, however, want to end this letter on a positive note. With great pride, I want to spread the news of my friend Ryan’s initiative to aid the struggling Christian community in Iraq. Christians currently number about 700,000 out of a population of about 22 million. They used to be a much larger community but they are shrinking fast for understandable reasons. Most are Chaldean Catholics who claim to have lived in the area since long before the Arab conquest in the seventh century. Many of them speak Syriac which is a Semitic language not too distant from Aramaic, the language spoken by Christ. Recently, churches, like mosques, have been attacked. I believe this to be largely motivated by the hope of instilling fear before the upcoming Iraqi elections. More importantly, these people are afraid to attend church. Even if they do manage to worship, the churches have been badly looted and are without power and amenities we take for granted. Ryan has taken the initiative in a fundraising effort to help out the one Anglican church in Baghdad. Founded by the British in the 1930’s, this church still has a loyal congregation. Many of the worshippers are non-denominational and seek only a place for worship. I have heard that even some Muslims attend. In any case, this church and many like it serve as foundations for the community, a community outside of the state that dominated life under Saddam Hussein. It is also my belief that supporting this kind of community will help to foster a degree of religious and therefore political tolerance in this nation which we are trying so hard to help rebuild. I have included an attachment with this e-mail that provides information on Ryan’s efforts in case you or anyone else you know might be interested in contributing or passing on the message. And with that, I think I will wish you all a good day. I will write soon with my further adventures in this incredibly fascinating, vital, at times hopeless, at times hopeful, but always beautiful region of the world. Christian (Comment on this)
Monday, November 8th, 2004
4:52 pm	Fallujah, Rowboats, and a Symposium Fallujah, Rowboats, and a Symposium November 7, 2004 - Baghdad, Iraq I have now archived my dispatches on LiveJournal.com. This will allow anyone to look up my previous dispatches. You can do so at: http://www.livejournal.com/users/christian_iraq/ With the US presidential election now settled, we now wonder what is in store for us. Presently, the focus is on Fallujah where a coalition assault has just begun. The hope is that this time we will go in and truly establish an undisputed presence in the city after clearing out the insurgents. In the meantime, we wonder what might be thrown at us in the Green Zone in retaliation. Fallujah is currently the heart of the insurgency. We can expect them to not give it up without striking back in some way. Many people believe that restoring Iraqi Governmental control over Fallujah is crucial to the upcoming Iraqi elections. After all, if the election does not include the votes of a major city such as Fallujah, how legitimate would it be. Although there will certainly be civilians deaths during the battle, I get the feeling that most Iraqis would want to see the city retaken. The weather has finally changed dramatically. We have had our first rain. When it starts, it helps to cut down on the dust in the air. However, this soon turns to mud which unfortunately finds its way into our sleeping quarters. I went to a party at the US Institute of Peace a week ago and talked with some UN staff about the upcoming Iraqi elections. The prerequisite to having an election is a database of voters. The UN is using the Food Program's database of registered food ration recipients. We shall certainly see if the Iraqi elections will be as successfull as those in Afghanistan. The USIP compound is actually located at Uday Hussein's old movie house villa. The movie screen is located across a big green fish pond from the structure. The pond is connected to a sizeable canal and pond system. Fortunately, USIP had a rowboat that could fit six of us. We then proceeded to row down the canals while being given a tour by one of our USIP hosts. Apart from the occasional barbed wire and sandbags, it reminded me of the Pirates of the Carribean ride at Disneyland as we passed through tunnels and under bridges. Surreal indeed. One wonders what other ways the former regime members had for amusing themselves. One of the more interesting developments in the social scene at the embassy is the creation of the Baghdad Symposium Series. My friend Ryan came up with the idea of holding a regular symposium to discuss selected classic political and philosophical works among the policy makers here. The idea is to tease universal themes out of these classical works. The inescapable context which surrounds us adds an extra color to the readings. I helped him put together the inaugral symposium last week. We chose the first selection to be the Seven Voyages of Sinbad from the 1001 Arabian Nights given the region and the fact that Sinbad is from Baghdad. We opened with a question delving into whether Sinbad is an example of fatalism (as seems so prevalent in Islam) or does he embody free will? Turn out was quite good and even some senior level folks showed up. Ryan also cracked open a few bottles of wine to ease the dialogue. Next week, turnout is expected to be even higher. One of the ambassadors is expected to bring cheese. Ambassador Negroponte was also on the invite list. Maybe he will attend one of these days. Wouldn't that be interesting? The next readings are selections from Thuciydides' "The Peloponnesian War". It will be interesting to see what discussions arise from "Pericles' Funeral Oration" and "The Melian Conference." from which comes the famous quote, "The strong do what they will. The weak do what they must." The first one offers a glimpse into the Athenian Democracy at the beginning of the wars while the second relates the negotiations between the Athenians and Melians before the Athenians destroy Melos in the pursuit of empire. I have attached both if anyone is curious. The themes of honour, patriotism, warfare, and international politics are extraordinarily relevant to the events here. I will soon leave on my second R&R trip. My destination is the Holy Land. Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, and Egypt are all on the list. I am taking about three weeks. I have no idea how much time I will spend in each place but I will definitely take in the sights of Jerusalem. I already know that crossing borders will be a pain and I am still figuring out the visa situation. I can't wait for the Roman ruins, the Western Wall, the Temple Mount, and the major sites surrounding the life and death of Jesus of Nazareth. I'm wondering what kind of perspective I will gain on my current circumstances. It will be fascinating to view my adventures through the larger context of the Middle East. Until next time, Christian (Comment on this)
Sunday, October 17th, 2004
2:58 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #19 - The Bombing of the Green Zone Cafe The Bombing of the Green Zone Café Baghdad - October 17, 2004 It is difficult to sum all of my thoughts and feelings regarding the bombings. I hope my following words strike close to the mark. The past few days have seen the fall out from last week's events. By far, Thurday, October 14th, was the worst day to date in the Green Zone. Two bombs exploded. Both suicide missions. The first target was the "Haji Mart". This was the local bazaar where we could buy cheap souvenirs, DVDs, and cigarettes. The bomb went off in Big John's, the general store where I bought the charcoal for my grill. The second bomb destroyed the Green Zone Cafe - until recently our local watering hole and nearest restaurant. Both establishments were Christian which when viewed in the light of yesterday's church bombings reveals the religious intolerance of some of our enemies. What is most disconcerting, is that this attack hit so close to home. I used to frequent the Green Zone Cafe almost everyday to eat chicken kabobs and enjoy a Turkish coffee. At night, we would drink Lebanese wine and smoke shisha while listening to the drumbeats of our Arab friends. I got to know some of the help and I still do not know who survived and who did not. The whole place is now only a memory. Smoky nights under the red tent will never be repeated and some of our friends are no longer with us. Fortunately, some survived the explosion and the story is that some of the help were able to save some lives by discreetly ushering customers out before the bomber realized what was happening. Four American security contractors were killed in the cafe. Six Iraqis were killed in both attacks. They happened during the lunch hour. I heard and felt both explosions. On the way back to the office we saw a thick cloud of black smoke coming from the middle of the Green Zone. Then we came across the Green Zone Cafe about 5 minutes after the attack. It was totally destroyed and I couldn't imagine how anyone could have survived. The rest of the day I spent in general shock. One of our staff members quit and flew home but everyone else has decided to push on. After all, if we left, the enemy would have succeeded. The casualty list could have been a great deal longer but most expatriates were urged not to patronize the cafe after a bomb was found there two weeks earlier. All that being said, security procedures have been stepped up and we are pretty much confined to government facilities. All local stores and restaurants are now off limits and we must wear our flak vests and helmets outside. Everyone expects these measures to last at least through Ramadan. Of course, we also have the US Presidential election coming up. That might also be a time of violence here as the insurgents attempt to exert some influence over the outcome. As if the election itself does not provide enough uncertainty! The outcome no matter whether it is Bush or Kerry may lead to dramatic leadership, organizational, and policy changes. Naturally, Bush would no longer have to worry about reelection and who knows what Kerry would do? If Kerry does win, there will be a degree of chaos as the new administration takes the reins and comes in with its own ideas. Hopefully, it would draw the correct lessons from our successes and failures to date. All is not bad news however. The US military has gone on the offensive and has retaken the cities of Samarra, Tal Afar, and Najar. This has required a show of force and will require winning the peace. The word is Najaf has already benefited from Iraqi government control as projects are now underway and the quality of life for Iraqis there is on the mend. As the residents of Fallujah see these improvements in other cities and realize that we will follow through both with our threats and promises, they may yet turn in the Jordanian terrorist Zarqawi. I have begun to make weekly trips to the hospital to visit the soldiers with my friend Ryan. We have discovered they especially appreciate phone calls to home with our cell phones. Issues of Sports Illustrated and Playboy (for the articles of course) are also appreciated. Hoping tomorrow will be better than today . . . Christian (Comment on this)
Wednesday, September 29th, 2004
2:57 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #18 - Hostage Taking, Mercenaries, and a Trip to the Hospital Hostage Taking, Mercenaries, and a Trip to the Hospital Baghdad - September 29, 2004 This last week has been very busy at the office where I have been filling in for people out on R&R. My job description has changed and I have taken on new responsibilities apparently reflecting the good job I've done so far. I am currently doing financial tracking with an eye for keeping our projects funded. If we don't get things just right, the funds may be reallocated thereby disrupting our program. Although some of this may be for good reason as priorities change to reflect the constantly shifting environment, some of the reallocations may be detrimental to the reconstruction effort. Due to my increased workload, this dispatch is late in coming but full of the events of the past two weeks. The security situation has disintegrated further since my last letter. A week and a half ago, we awoke to a mortar barrage of over two hours in length. All previous mortar attacks while I have been here have consisted only of a few volleys. Fortunately, no one in the International Zone was injured. This is probably due to the fact that most people were still asleep. However, one mortar landed less than 100 yards away from my friend Ryan's trailer. Quite a baptism by fire considering he had arrived only two weeks previously. The recent kidnappings have of course taken the headlines although I know for a fact that they are under-reported. One of the sons of the owner of the Iraqi cafe I frequent was kidnapped last week and was threatened with a beheading unless the family could come up with $250,000. The family eventually came up with $15,000 and he was returned. I saw him afterwards and he seemed in good spirits and without much physical injury. He was kidnapped in the Red Zone and to date, no one has been kidnapped in the International Zone. Although, the terrorist kidnappers dominate the news, their criminal kin should also not be forgotten. People are not only being kidnapped for political reasons but also for economic reasons. There also exists a secondary market in hostages. I have heard that this is common in other countries (Colombia is one example). That is, kidnappers will take a hostage only to sell them to someone else. Sometimes, the hostage could be sold numerous times. One could almost say that the terrorists are "outsourcing". This is an extremely dangerous development for we are not just dealing with the few politically motivated but also the poor masses who might see short term financial gain in this trade. On a quick side note, the family mentioned above received a double hit when their restaurant was prevented from selling alcohol without a liquor license. Apparently, this is being enforced by the Iraqi Police. Their primary motivation undoubtedly is to take a piece of this lucrative business. No place can now sell alcohol save for the "7-11" which apparently does not need a license. I wonder why . . . This leads to an even greater question. The new Iraqi regime faces many obstacles not least of which is corruption. But then again, they are now sovereign. Of course, a corrupt regime will only make fighting the insurgency more difficult and will be a detriment to US interests but how much can the US butt its head into their affairs to purge corruption without infringing upon their sovereignty? Back to the security situation - There are now rumors that dangerous materials have been smuggled into sensitive areas of the International Zone. We may yet see an explosion at a facility here. One of the more shortsighted policies has been the use of private security firms for certain jobs. These firms employ mercenaries from all over the globe. The security escorts accompanying trips into the Red Zone are mostly handled by Americans, Brits, Aussies, and South Africans. Although their behavior can at times be reckless, I would wager that for the most part, their loyalty is high. (They are all Westerners and are extremely well paid.) However, for guard duty, security firms usually employ mercenaries from poor countries including Iraqis. (Most of them hail from Nepal.) They are probably very inexpensive compared to using the rich country mercenaries and Marines. For mercenaries in general and particularly for those who don't identify as much with the cause, their motivations are economic. They do have a price. How high is it I wonder. History has proven time and again the dangers of using such forces. Granted, there are advantages. Sometimes they can be cheaper. It is also certainly more politically palatable than sending more US soldiers over to risk their lives. What mercenaries lack is patriotism and therefore almost unswerving loyalty. Because of this, we employ the Marines to guard our embassies. We are currently not using them enough. Instead, we have Iraqis guarding some sensitive sites. Should we doubt their loyalty? Definitely. They would be even more open to financial gain or threats than third country hired guns. Sometimes, all it takes is not showing up to work in the morning. Witness the recent kidnapping of the two Americans and Brit when their Iraqi guards were nowhere to be found. On the light side, as some of you know, grilling up meat on the BBQ is one of my favorite past times. I finally procured a grill and some rib-eye steaks last week. How often I will be able to find such quality beef is up in the air but for two nights I ate extremely well. I also owe thanks to my good friend Mark who hails from Kansas City, Kansas, for mastering the art of grilling with Iraqi charcoal. We even served up our own kabobs with roasted onions, tomatoes, and fresh garlic bread. In this environment, it's the little things that count. Good steak can go a long way. Back on the heavier side, Ryan and I visited the hospital last week in an effort to show our support for the wounded troops. We took an international cell phone along in case any of them wanted to call home. Almost all were injured by roadside bombs and suffered from burns and broken bones. Most of them seemed to be in relatively good spirits albeit under the daze of painkillers. We did however hear the cries of a soldier across the hall. I have never heard anyone in so much pain. For several seconds, our conversation with the soldiers stopped. None of us knew what to say. What can one say? Fortunately, few stay in the Baghdad hospital long. They are sent on to Germany for better treatment. Usually, they leave Baghdad the same day of their injury. We wished the soldiers speedy recoveries and left with heavy hearts. Christian (Comment on this)
Friday, September 10th, 2004
2:56 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #17 - September 11th and Political Will September 11th and Political Will Baghdad - September 10, 2004 The third anniversary of September 11th is tomorrow. What change three years has brought both for the good and for the bad! Both successes and mistakes. It was three years ago that I decided to join the fight to prevent such a catastrophe from happening again. That fight is still very much underway and I am now in the middle of it. I've been back in Baghdad now for just over a week. I returned from Greece safe and sound. Having gone on my first R&R leave, I came back extremely refreshed and with a new burst of energy to come back into the game here in Iraq. My role is now changing. I am taking more financial duties and will be helping to track the finances of our ongoing projects. New tasks, new responsibilities. I am very excited. However, I am still doing some PR work and I include the following link to highlight a piece I wrote on the Transportation/Communications Sector for the PCO website: http://www.rebuilding-iraq.net/portal/page?_pageid=35,65090&_dad=portal&_schema=PORTAL As I've discovered, occasional trips out of country for rest and recuperation are extremely vital in order to keep one's focus. Greece was perfect in every way. I met up with some of my closest friends and was able to wind down. I was also able to gain some perspective on what is happening around me and what I am doing. When I was traveling around Greece meeting people here and there, the topic of my profession naturally surfaced and when I told them what I do and where I live, most people expressed a great deal of curiosity. It was also great to be back in a place where I did not have to worry about the dangers of everyday life in the International Zone. I must also say that Greece is an excellent place to take a vacation. In the end, the criticism leveled on them with regard to the chaotic planning and security for the Olympics proved overstated. They pulled the Olympics off magnificently and Athens is all the better for it. (The city now has a new airport, highways, and very efficient metro system!) Greeks in general, are very friendly and most speak English. A good amount speak at least three languages. Then there are the beaches, seafood, and islands! I could go on without ever stopping . . . I will be back! As for the situation here in Iraq, it is very difficult to tell whether the situation is deteriorating, improving, or remaining very much the same. At this point, some major cities are outside the control of both US and Iraqi government forces. Samarra, Fallujah, and Ramadi are no-go zones and apparently, Fallujah is being run by a very conservative theocracy. How reconstruction is supposed to occur in these places is up in the air. The military commanders are trying to use reconstruction aid as a carrot to induce these cities to come under either US or Iraqi governmental control. The flip side is that many Iraqis will remain without work as long as projects are not funded. Where will they go then? Will they stay in the militias? When I was away, Sadr vacated the Ali Shrine in Najaf. (The holiest site in Shiite Islam apart from Mecca). That was an improvement. However, he was allowed to keep his militia, the Mehdi Army, intact. These are some of the very same people that establish checkpoints in Baghdad and harass our people on their way to work. As long as Sadr has an armed militia, he will continue to be a problem and a threat to the fledgling government. I do believe that in the end, he would eventually like to become a part of the political process but at what cost to democracy, individual freedom, and the Iraqi minorities? Allowing Sadr to keep his weapons was an admission of weakness both on the part of the Iraqi government and the US. As some parts of the population see the government and the coalition as either unable or unwilling to protect them from the violence of other factions, what will they do? They face the choice of backing the central government or backing the nearest and most powerful local faction. What gets lost in the passionate clamor from some circles for a US withdrawal is the rational choice that many individuals make to side with the insurgents. Without jobs, without protection, they will protect their families as best they may. What seems to be failing the US now is the political will. There is no doubt that our soldiers are incredibly skilled and equipped. Their performance in Najaf was remarkable. Did we fail at the negotiating table? As perhaps we also did in Fallujah? Did we play any role at all in the negotiations? Why, after such a tough fight, was Sadr let off the hook? These are questions that many Iraqis are asking. Will they therefore maintain faith in the ability of the US to establish peace and prosperity in the country? Christian (Comment on this)
Tuesday, August 24th, 2004
2:55 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #16 - The Olympics in Greece The Olympics in Greece Athens, Greece - August 24, 2004 That's right. I am currently in Greece spending my first R&R and hitting the Olympics. I left Baghdad for Kuwait last Friday and arrived in Athens Saturday morning. Although I have been enjoying my work there, it is certainly good to take a break. Before I left, things were coming to a head with Sadr and the situation was getting tense. Now, it seems so far away although I will be back soon enough. Presently, I am visiting close friends from my graduate school days at Carnegie Mellon. It is a great joy to relate to good friends in person the adventures I have been having. One of my friends, Alejandro, just arrived from Kabul where he is working with the UN to reestablish the customs services. There are vast differences between our work and the respective situations but there are also tremendous similarities! For instance, both operations face the challenge of dealing with multiple stakeholders and competing claims of interest. Additionally, we also both face the fact of dealing with governments that are very limited in their control of their respective countries. It also seems that the creation of the both governments is a similar process. In Afghanistan, they held the Loya Jirga. In Iraq, we recently held the National Conference. Both bodies were made up of a large number of representatives from throughout the country and both were responsible for providing legitimacy to the present government. Both governments face the challenge of insurgents and armed groups unwilling to take part in the political process. Although Iraq has dominated the news for the last year, we cannot forget Afghanistan. Failure there will have consequences for Iraq and likewise the other way round. In other news, my close friend, Ryan, from Washington DC, just got a job with the State Department in Iraq. He will be working with the Iraqi Reconstruction Management Office (this organization also falls under the US Embassy and will be involved with the Project and Contracting Office in coordinating the reconstruction effort. I am very much looking forward to getting another perspective on the challenges we face and I know that Ryan will prove to be a valuable asset in this effort. It is also great to have a good friend in country! Since I am currently taking a break in Greece, my mind is more focused here and although the purposes of my letters is to explore and relate the situation in Iraq, I want to describe an experience yesterday that is linked and is very revealing about the US and where we are in the world today. Last night, I attended some of the Track and Field competitions at the massive Olympic stadium. The stadium was packed with people. Although most everyone was Greek, there were also tremendous numbers of Brits and Germans. The group that was noticeably lacking in numbers was the USA. This became extremely apparent when we swept the 400 meter male race by winning the Bronze, Silver, and Gold medals! After the race, my friend Todd (also a grad school friend) and I shouted "USA!USA!" as loud as we could in support of our athletes. There were hardly any American flags waving and we were two of the few people celebrating. Later, during the medal ceremony, we waved our American flags and shouted out. A few other Americans joined us. When the national anthem was played, hardly anyone was around to sing. This contrasted sharply with the British celebration just moments before for their gold medal. Clearly, few Americans made it to the Olympics. For our numbers and our wealth, only a handfull made it to see and support our athletes. What does this mean? Was it fear that kept us at home? Or disinterest? What was everyone else thinking when we were largely absent and our medal winners triumphed to few cries of their countrymen? It is indeed a very fascinating time to be alive and amazing to take part in these events and to experience what I am experiencing. As a country, where are we going? Christian (Comment on this)
Friday, August 13th, 2004
2:53 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #15 - Iraqi Breakfast and a Soccer Match Iraqi Breakfast and a Soccer Match Baghdad - August 13, 2004 Last night and today were quite exciting. I joined some friends for dinner at the local cafe last night and watched an Olympics qualifying match between Iraq and Portugal. Since it looked like the Iraqis would win, we thought it wise to proceed home to a hardened shelter. This course of action proved the wisest for upon victory, the entire sky was lit up with tracers and the roar of gunfire. From every direction, guns were fired into the air. Tracers were seen coming from the International Zone - even from the Ministry of Defense right next door. Can you imagine soldiers at the Pentagon firing off their weapons at will? Many people went on the roof to watch. Probably not a very smart move. The bullets have to land somewhere. On another night earlier in the week, we saw tracers being fired in the air in the direction of Sadr City (I'm thinking probably at one of our helicopters), flares in the sky, and large flashes on the horizon in the direction of Fallujah (it is only 30-40 miles away). Blackhawk medic choppers flew overhead as well. The past couple weeks has also seen the return of mortars. Fortunately, not many people in the International Zone have been injured. Today's events proved pretty noteworthy. I went on the roof this morning only to bear witness to massive amounts of demonstrators pouring over the nearest bridge toward the International Zone. They came wave after wave chanting in unison. Most groups were led by someone waving an enormous black flag. Seeing as the demonstrations were being held not very far from our residence, I thought it prudent to go down to the embassy for a while. I am still not sure what the demonstrations are about. Perhaps they are related to the fighting in Najaf yesterday? Finally the weather is starting to cool down out here. Instead of being 120 degrees farenhiet, we are now hitting 115. One day, it won't get above 100! The hot weather has brought the date harvest and the date palms throughout the International Zone are laden with big green, yellow, and brownish dates. As for eating them, they are quite good! I've never had so many different varieties. One of my Iraqi coworkers has been bringing in Iraqi breakfast food. This usually consists of Iraqi bread (some of it resembles pita bread), yogurt, date syrup, buffalo cream, olives, and cheese (very salty with a texture and taste similar to mozzarella). All of these make for an excellent breakfast and it is probably a great deal healthier than your typical American fare. Baghdad has become increasingly dangerous for Iraqis in the last week. My Iraqi assistant told me that she was stopped by militia men on her way to work. They asked her where she was going and warned her to go home. Brave as she is, she told them she had to go to school to take an exam. They let her pass. Certain areas of the city are extremely dangerous - mainly Sadr City where between 2 and 3 million poor Iraqi Shiites live. Although many parts of that area have seen violence, apparently the parts where projects are underway (mostly sewerage construction) have been more tranquil. The Iraqi government has declared a curfew in Sadr City. In turn the militias have traveled to other areas of Baghdad and declared their own curfew. Many people are speculating that the upsurge in violence is due to Sistani's absence (Sistani is the senior Shiite cleric in Iraq. He has proved pretty moderate and helped to quelch the radical Shiite insurgency last April). Currently he is in the UK for medical treatment. Perhaps this is a power play on the part of Sadr, the young upstart? With regard to the progress of reconstruction, things are definitely picking up despite all the negative attention in the media. We have construction commencing tomorrow on a major railway station. As more projects commence within the month, employment figures are set to rise dramatically. Whether or not they will rise fast enough to see a decrease in violence by the time of the US Presidential election is another story. Then again, since I am away from the States, it is hard to tell what issues the elections are really about. However, I imagine that success or failure on our part here will have some impact. One of the greatest challenges that we have faced and will continue to face as far as I can tell is the isolation inherent in the International Zone. I don't think there is enough interaction between the Iraqi ministries and the US policy makers responsible for the reconstruction process. Most ministries are located in the Red Zone and are therefore only accessible by coalition officials via armed security escort. These have to be booked well in advance and limit the amount of time available for face-to-face interaction between Iraqi and coalition officials. These security measures act as an artificial source of friction in getting things done and will continue to hamper coordination on a whole range of issues. I am starting to think that the creation of the Green Zone was a great mistake. By constructing an isolated fortress, we have kept too much distance between us and the surrounding government and country. I wonder if it would have been possible to establish smaller secure areas with the idea that most of the international workers could interact freely with the local population. I might be wrong but I think that would have made it easer to "win the hearts and minds of Iraqis". The International Zone will one day cease to exist. Perhaps it will be declared officially nonexistent one morning or maybe it will fall away piece by piece. No one wants to be the one to do it and be held responsible for anything that might go wrong. Maybe change will have to come from within as members of the international community in the international zone take risks and travel outside to such an extent that it will become tacitly routine. Christian (Comment on this)
Saturday, July 31st, 2004
2:52 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #14 - Prostitution at the Green Zone Cafe Prostitution at the Green Zone Café Baghdad - July 31, 2004 Caught a glimpse of the darker side of the Green Zone the other night. As I mentioned in my previous e-mail, I had started getting to know the Lebaneseguards who protect our offices and living quarters. The ones who guard us seem to be decent guys. However, some of the others are into questionable activities. A couple nights ago, there was a Lebanese party at the local cafe. A few of my coworkers and I arrived and found the place brimming with activity. There was one long table down the middle of the room filled with all sorts of Middle Eastern foods. Around the table sat a bunch of Lebanese security guys and some seriously inebriated young blue collar American expats. There was also an Iraqi girl who I later learned was a prostitute. I sat at another table with my coworkers and Lebanese friends and watched in wonder. The guy running the party was a middle aged Lebanese guy with a shoulder holster and loaded pistol. He was probably one of the scarier guys I've seen yet. He had sort of a dead look in his eyes like he didn't care about anything. Even as he was beating the drums when the Arabic music was playing, he looked like he had taken a few lives. Given the history of Lebanon, who knows what he has done? After a while, his racket soon became obvious as he directed the Iraqi girl to different tables and carried on negotiations with the expats. If an agreement was reached, she would leave the cafe with one of the expats only to return later and leave with someone else. This girl must of left and returned at least 3 times while we were there. She had two other friends who showed up and did the same thing. I asked my Lebanese friends what the story was. They said to stay away since she was "dirty" after having been with so many men. I was amazed that it was happening so much in the open for all to see. The conversation moved onto other subjects and after buying a bottle of Lebanese wine, we toasted to Lebanon, California, and friends. Eventually, we took the drum that was being passed around and beat it to the music. One of my Lebanese friends started to beat it but gave up in frustration. He told me he couldn't play since his hand was shot in one of the wars. He showed me the scar. It must have been quite a wound. Moving on to a lighter subject, I have now seen Negroponte twice. The first time was in the hall at the embassy. We passed each other. He cuts a dignified but aloof presence. Not as openly friendly as Bremer. Hopefully, I will get a chance to hear him speak so I can gain a better impression. This week, I worked on slides for a brief for Powell and Bush. Nice to know my slides are being read. Still wish I could have put my name on them. This time, I was selling a particular intiative to gain more Iraqi participation in the reconstruction process. I thought I did a pretty good job. The Project and Contracting Office certainly needs salesmen these days. I heard we got slammed on CNN the other day. Last week, I watched a DVD rip-off of Fahrenheit 911. The only thing I will say about it here is that I would not take the clips of the US soldiers in Iraq talking about the war to be very representative of military people here. On a similar note, now that I have met firsthand people in the military in many different capacities and have been exposed albeit in a very limited degree to the effects of war, I now have a completely different perspective regarding war in general and more specifically, those who participate in it. I definitely have a much greater appreciation for those who serve their country in this capacity and a much greater appreciation for those who experience the threat of violence on a daily basis. As a result, I have noticed that I look upon violence in movies, especially in war films, differently. I certainly feel as if I have taken on a perspective that few Americans share. What will another week bring? Christian (Comment on this)
Saturday, July 24th, 2004
2:51 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #13 - The Power of Names The Power of Names Baghdad - July 24, 2004 Time is flying here. I can't believe I have already spent almost three months in the Green Zone. Actually, the Green Zone is now officially called the International Zone. Why the name change? Who knows? Personally, I think it was a poor decision. It helps to undercut the sovereignty that is apparently in existence by implying that the zone is not under Iraqi control but under international or foreign jurisdiction somewhat similar to the foreign concessions in China or the International Zone in Morocco. At least that's my take on it. It is an area dominated by foreigners who enjoy certain immunities from the local government. What's in a name? Symbolism. Mere words are of tremendous significance especially when national pride is at stake. Eventually the International Zone will be dismantled, at least that is what is supposed to happen. In preparation of that, there has been much construction and increased levels of security throughout the zone. The most telling sign is the continued placing of "T Walls" - gigantic concrete slabs that when placed side by side form a wall capable of diverting the blasts from car bombs. The UN is moving back into Iraq. I know this because they are taking over my present living quarters. It seems the administration is making a tremendous effort to rekindle good relations with the organization so that they will play a large role in the process of democratizing the country. Hopefully, the Defense Department will have found a new place for me to live by the time the UN arrives. I am not complaining. We need them here. Already though, the living situation has changed due to the influx of private security contractors into our compound. Unhindered by military rules, they walk into the sleeping quarters with loaded assault rifles and drink until all hours of the night. Most of them have shown up without permission as their friends continue to sneak them in. Now that they are around, I feel much safer. Strangely enough, the budding young social scene has taken a hit. They are closing our only "Nightclub" at 10 pm due to "security reasons". Other avenues of recreation have also been limited. For instance, the pool I have been going to is suddenly off limits because I am a contractor and contractors are not allowed in due to "security reasons". State department personnel are allowed in as are active duty military. I guess the powers-that-be are staking out territory. Suddenly the notion that "we are all on the same team" seems an illusion. Certainly, in the media things are not rosy with the Sate Department and the Department of Defense at odds over how to spend the reconstruction money. I have attached an article from the LA Times citing this very issue. State wishes to take a good chunk of the funds already committed and start projects aimed at more immediate job creation and democratization. This will undoubtedly slow the process down and push start dates even further off into the future. I am also wondering how the Iraqis would want to spend the money. Would they rather have the process of democratization sped up or running water and reliable electricity? This is a question I will further pursue with the Iraqis I know. As for the focus on immediate job creation, there is the risk that too much focus will be put on small one-off projects that won't lead to continued employment and economic growth. Some projects may not hire as many people right away but may lay a greater foundation for more employment down the road. I fear that quick solutions in order to boost employment before the US presidential elections will hamper the mission. As for my work, I have been putting together PowerPoint slides to present my company's achievements to the State Department. Apparently, a few of my slides have already passed in front of the ambassador and some even to Colin Powell! I wish I could have put my name on them. Recently, I have been able to practice my French and Italian with our Lebanese guards. They are a very friendly bunch. All Christians, I caught them snacking on pork rinds at the local cafe. Even though they are pretty easygoing as professional guards go, they remain vigilant and are extremely diligent when checking our cars for explosives. As for Arabic, I have started learning some phrases from my assistant. I can now order a beer God willing. All in all, the only constant continues to be change. There are moments of great frustration and moments of great reward. The roller coaster keeps on riding and I still wouldn't give anything to be anywhere else. . . Christian (Comment on this)
Saturday, July 10th, 2004
2:48 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #12 - Iraqi Culinary Adventures Iraqi Culinary Adventures Baghdad - July 10, 2004 I have had many people ask me how Iraqis are reacting to the handover. The Iraqis I encounter think things are improving. Those at our office have told me that more Iraqi police are patrolling the streets and that as a result, they feel safer, at least in Baghdad. We have certainly seen a great many Iraqi soldiers here in the Green Zone as the Iraqi forces continue to take on more responsibilities. As for the new government, most Iraqis seem willing to give it a chance. Most want to see it succeed in bringing law and order to the country. Granted, the new government requires the backing of the US so complete independence is illusory. However, nominal sovereignty is better than nothing. The relative calm in the Green Zone since the handover has raised morale. Can it be that we are succeeding? Still, other problems persist. My assistant told me that one of her distant relations was kidnapped for ransom. Unfortunately, the family was unable to afford the initial ransom of $50,000. She says however, that the kidnappers continually lower the ransom if it is obvious that the family cannot pay. So far, their latest offer is for $10,000. Power outages continue in Baghdad. Only two hours of electricity was available yesterday. The only option is to start up the generator but this requires the use of benzyne which is in short supply. As I am slowly getting to know our local hires, I am learning more and more about Iraqi culture. I took my assistant and one other hire out for lunch today with a friend of mine. Their first question took me by surprise - "Are you married?" I just laughed and said no. Here is an interesting piece of information - generally the richer the family, the larger the family. It is not uncommon for a man to have 3 wives. I asked if all the wives are treated equally. That is up to the husband. Many times, fathers don't even know their own children. Even if once they determine who their children are, they may have to ask them who their mother is! I am also being exposed to Arabic music which I find quite enjoyable. Most music seems to come from Lebanon but there are a great deal of famous Iraqi artists. My assistant brought me three CDs as a gift. She is also making me tea in the morning and gave me a bunch of cookies to snack on. I suppose I should delve a little bit into local cuisine. Iraq is famous for many things including dates, fish, and lamb. The dates have not ripened yet but Iraqis claim they are the best in the world. Basrah was a major production center until it was devastated in the Iran-Iraq War. Being one of the few Middle Eastern countries to enjoy greater quantities of freshwater (due to the presence of the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers), they are also famous for their fish. I tried this once but am wary of consuming large quantities due to the polluted state of the rivers. Lastly, the lamb is incredible. The main dish is called quzi and consists of large chunks of lamb served on a bed of rice. One should down everything but the bones including the delicious chunks of fat. Additionally, I tried rosewater apple juice once - quite tasty. Now, I'm getting hungry. Today I saw the first clouds I have seen since I arrived here 2 1/2 months ago. That's right. Not a single cloud for over two months. I almost forgot what they looked like. The humidity is starting to set in and everyone is bracing for even more extreme temperatures. The nightlife is now improving. I went to the Al Rasheed Hotel "Nightclub" a couple nights ago to find a packed dance floor. I almost thought I was in New York City. With the State Department coming in, the demographics are changing rapidly. We are seeing some more women and more Ivy Leaguers. The Wild West is getting tamed. The local establishments now ask you to clear your weapons at the door and the massage parlor has the words "No Sexual Contact" written on the sign. The days of the cowboy are coming to an end. . . Christian (Comment on this)
Tuesday, June 29th, 2004
2:45 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #11 - Iraq Becomes Sovereign Iraq Becomes Sovereign Baghdad - June 29, 2004 Well, the handover already happened. I heard about it over lunch yesterday. Has much changed? It is hard to say. For now, it is difficult to determine who answers to who in the organizational structure of the whole mission. For instance, the Program Management Office has now changed names to the Project and Contracting Office and we are now answerable to the State Department and the Department of Defense. How will that work out? Who knows? Everyone is staking out territory and the DOD and DOS are the biggest players. The danger is that government infighting may hamper the mission. And what about sovereignty? Legally, I am now in a sovereign country albeit with tremendous foreign influence. I will have to ask my Iraqi coworkers about their ideas on the notion when they come back to work. For now, many of them are staying home to wait out the next couple days. There are a few visible signs of change. Security has bee increased significantly and a few Iraqi flags have now gone up around the Green Zone. Since the handover, things have been eerily quite here in the Green Zone. The previous few days have seen mortars land close to our office and living areas. An Iraqi electrician was hit by one and killed outside our compound as he was heading to work in the morning. However, we have continued our work undaunted. I hired an assistant this week. She, like many Iraqi workers in the Green Zone, must come in from the Red Zone. Her perspective on danger is far removed from that of yours truly. Today, I was showing her some of our files when a mortar hit about 100 yards from our building. (Fortunately, no one was hurt.) As the boom resounded through the building, myself and one of my coworkers dove under our desks. My assistant didn't even move. After crawling out from under my desk, I asked her if she was all right. She said she was fine and was used to all the explosions. Then she cheerily said, "Now I want to get back to work Mr. Chris". (All the locals attach Mr. to the first name of the expats - I guess in a show of respect.) She wasn't even phased. Later, she talked about what a beautiful day it was. (The outside temperature was over 100 degrees farenheit.) Another woman who works for us was injured in the big car bomb attack on the Assassin's Gate this past January while she was on her way to work. She was laid up in a hospital for over a month but still insisted on working for the Coalition in the Green Zone. I had Friday off again last week and this time I took a tour of Saddam Hussein's parade grounds and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with a friend from work. The whole complex was built during the Iran-Iraq War. I took my digital video camera and grabbed some pretty nice pics. I will try to send some out when I get a chance. On both ends of the parade route, a pair of arms rise from the ground and cross swords in a great arch. Iranian helmets are piled by paved into the road to serve as speed bumps as one drives under the swords. Another way to humiliate your enemy? Some of them have bullet holes. I gave my camera to a guard while his partner led us down into the ground and up inside one of the arms. After climbing up several ladders at weird angles, we reached an open space where I stuck out my head. The guard down below got a picture. We then moved on to the grandstands overlooking the Parade Route. An old guard with an AK-47 took us on a tour. The walls were covered in graffiti by American soldiers. "I love you MOM" was a common phrase. At one point, as my friend was filming me talking to the guard, the guard pulled his gun on me from a few yards away. I jumped back rather startled and the man laughed. He was just pulling my leg. Still, pointing weapons at people is far from a laughing matter. My adrenaline quota was met for the next year. Later, he had us pose with the AK-47 on Saddam's stand in the grandstands. Now that was surreal. I wonder if they will tear the whole thing down. It certainly cannot bring back good memories. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was also an experience. The entire structure looks like Space Mountain at Disneyland or something out of a 70's science fiction movie. A guard took us up to the casket and down underneath the tomb where swords hung from a central column. The guard pointed at strange packages on the column and said, "C-F, C-F!". At first I thought he meant C-4 but later was relieved to hear that he was probably referring to the swords. He also gave me an entire booklet of admission tickets to the tomb as a kind of souvenir. Regarding ongoing progress of our program, we contributed some work on the Accelerated Iraqi Reconstruction Program which funded public works projects in the Sunni Triangle. One achievement so far has been the employment of about 1,400 Iraqis. Our other projects are moving along and groundbreaking ceremonies should begin next month. Progress is occurring. Not as fast as desired but we are moving along. Christian (Comment on this)
Saturday, June 19th, 2004
4:11 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #10 Baghdad - June 19, 2004 Last week, I walked up to the Assassin's Gate where an Abramsat guard. These tanks are truly impressive up close. Last week, I saw one turn a corner at about 30 mph. I've never seen so much steel fly by so fast. The one at the Gate was manned by a friendly soldier who seemed quite content to sit guard on his charge. Soon enough, two hummers pulled up from the Red Zone. The commanding officer got out and approached us. We told him we had just been chatting with the tank guy. He said that he had just come from a firefight but he was calm and collected seeing as they had taken no casualties. He offered us a lift home which we graciously declined. Of course, there has been more violence. One person in our office was a cousin of the late Deputy Foreign Minister who was assassinated last week. Then there was the car bomb that hit the convoy right across the river. I heard that one while on the way to work in the morning. The most distressing fact is that the crowd cheered and doused the vehicles in fuel. This is truly not a good sign and clearly reveals the discontent that is taking hold in the population. Probably one of the more foolish acts of the CPA was to evenly distribute power throughout the country. Although this brought relief to some outlying areas, the population of Baghdad went from 20 hours of power a day to 12 hours. Probably not a good way to "win the hearts and minds" of the Iraqi people. Last week, I was awoken by mortar shells landing not too far from where I live. Good thing I am now in a hardened building. The only thing we could do was ride it out. On a brighter note, we have hired our first Iraqis. Some of them are engineers while some are translators and administrative assistants. Since I am running payroll for our local hires, my schedule and responsibilities have picked up dramatically. Currently, I am on the lookout for my own assistant to take over some of the administrative functions that I have been carrying out. I will be interviewing candidates over the next few days. In fact, the entire office dynamic is changing. The other firms in our office have also been hiring locals. Finally I will get the opportunity to learn more about the culture of this ancient land. Our local hires are very enthusiastic and seem very committed. I have no doubt I will learn a great deal from them. Professionally, I am growing by leaps and bounds since I am learning new skills including everything from public relations to payroll to management. I'm also learning about the contracting process. When I left DC, no one understood all the acronyms I threw around. When I eventually get back to the States, I will have engineering terminology down. So far, it's only been 2 months. Who knows what the next two will bring? The other night during dinner at my favorite cafe, I met a young man who serves in the Iraqi army. Only 18 years old, he apparently already has two kills under his belt. A few people in our group tried on his blue beret. The blue beret seems to have become standard issue in the Iraqi army. In fact, it looks very much like "UN Blue". Who knows? Maybe the Iraqi army cut a deal with the UN's supplier? I also discovered a new almost totally secluded swimming pool where I spent half my day off yesterday. This was only my second day off since arriving. The water was perfectly cool and I almost forgot where I was until the Blackhawks flew overhead. Helicopters rule the skies here. Sometimes, they fly very low to the ground. At night, they fly without lights. The Blackhawks are always a sight. Then there are the Apaches (not as common but occasionally conduct sweeps - they truly look like a weapon of war). The Cobras are also around and with their sleek bodies, actually resemble those serpents that apparently live down in the Tigris. The Chinooks also fly by on occasion and they seem to be the loudest. Abrams and Bradley Fighting Vehicles also make a great racket when they fly down the streets of the Green Zone. I've only been here two months but I feel as if I've aged a year or more. Take care and I promise to be safe. Christian (Comment on this)
Wednesday, June 9th, 2004
3:53 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #9 Baghdad - June 9, 2004 This week I shall elaborate on the tangible accomplishments of the Program Management Office, the department responsible for overseeing the application of the $18.5 billion in aid. To date, very little of this money has resulted in construction although many projects will be starting soon. For the Transportation and Communications Sector, we expect to start "turning dirt" in the first week of July. That's engineer-speak for commencing construction. What projects are we expected to commence this summer? - Rural road reconstruction for most of the Iraqi Governorates (this should commence early next month while the other projects are scheduled to start throughout the summer) (The country is divided into Governorates which are administered by Iraqi governors and officials. For a short list, they include: Basrah, Baghdad, Babel (remember the Tower of Babel? - I think this is where Babylon is located), Al-Anbar, Najaf, Karbala, Ninewa (sound Biblical?), and Salah Al-Din (Saddam Hussein claimed this was the birthplace of Saladin - the great Kurdish warrior who fought Richard Lionheart and defeated the Crusaders). - Railroad station rehabilitation in most governorates - Installation of navigational aids and terminal rehabilitation for the major airports - Installation of a 911-like system to better coordinate efforts between police, firemen, and other emergency services (Interestingly enough, there was some debate about what type of technology to use. Some Congressmen were pushing for an American standard (ain't that a surprise?). However, this would have resulted in the isolation of the Iraqi emergency network (most of the Middle East operates on a different standard) with the inability to interface effectively with neighboring countries. Thankfully, wiser heads prevailed and the standard will be Middle Eastern. - Port rehabilitation and construction to increase the Iraqi capacity to import needed foodstuffs and supplies - Freeway construction linking the major cities - Bridge construction As you can see, much is planned. Most of these projects will provide tremendous employment opportunities and will be carried out by Iraqi subcontracting firms. To get a better idea of what we are doing, I am providing a link to the Program Management Office web site: http://www.rebuilding-iraq.net/portal/page?_pageid=33,30990&_dad=portal&_schema=PORTAL Regarding other adventures, I went to the only nightclub in the Green Zone last week. It is affectionately known as "The Nightclub". The interior looks about 30 years old with musty velvet chairs and red walls. It has a decently sized dance floor with the largest disco ball I have ever seen. Drinks are somewhat expensive (Beers are $4 and a bottle of Johnny Walker Red Label sells for a cool $100 - one of my coworkers is rather fond of the stuff). The music is mostly last year's cheesy clubbing hits. For all my former grad school friends, you know what I'm referring to. However, last call is early and Ghurkas serve as the bouncers. I have been to the "Second Chinese Restaurant" and the food has proved decent enough to be labeled "Chinese" - I have not yet been to the "First Chinese Restaurant". Chinese run the place with Iraqi help and a Japanese woman runs a massage parlor employing Chinese "massage therapists". She use to work for an NGO but struck a business deal with the Chinese to form a joint venture in free-budding capitalism. Speaking of which, the "7-11", our liquor store establishment, is growing hand over fist. When I first arrived, it consisted solely of a concrete shack. Now they are laying a concrete slab to serve as a foundation for their casino, restaurant, and cafe. Today, they told me they were expecting to have a grand opening next month. All of the Iraqi run restaurants and the liquor store are owned by Iraqi Catholics. They call themselves Chaldeans. I have yet to learn the roots of this branch of Christianity. The Chaldean women that I have seen wear very visible gold crosses around their necks. Too bad their church is in the Red Zone. Otherwise, I would love to attend a mass. One day, I will. Christian (Comment on this)
Wednesday, June 2nd, 2004
3:25 pm	Baghdad Dispatch #8 Baghdad - June 2, 2004 Yesterday proved exciting enough. On my way to lunch with one of my coworkers, we heard a boom off in the distance followed by what sounded like a rocket whizzing by overhead - the most frightening kind of firework. Booms are not as frightening anymore. If you hear one, the attack probably already happened and you are generally safe. However, the sound of a rocket flying by means that the worst is yet to come. At such a moment, there is only one thing you can do - hit the deck. We did so immediately. Then we got up and ran over to one of the many concrete shelters erected throughout the Green Zone for just this kind of occasion. Afterward, we hit the chow hall and in the middle of our meal, another boom sounded and shook the entire dining facility. There was one beat of silence and everyone went back to enjoying their meals. Hardly a conversation was interrupted. It seems as if anything can become routine. I had my first day off this past Monday for Memorial Day. I spent most of the day recovering from the previous evening's festivities and lounging by the pool. The night before, the Coalition Provisional Authority (the current government of Iraq) threw a BBQ complete with an amateur rock band of army people who covered everything from country to Jimi Hendrix. The shish kabobs were excellent but the burgers could have been better. Quite a high calibre political event. General Sanchez (the US military commander in charge of Iraq) was there. I ate my dinner but a few feet from him as he was posing for photographs and signing autographs just like a Hollywood celebrity. The British Ambassador recited a speech by Tony Blair. This was followed by an address by L. Paul Bremer (I stood but a couple yards away) thanking the staff of the CPA for their hard work. I was very impressed with his delivery. He sounded very sincere and exuded a sense of charisma one would expect of such a man with his position. After his talk, there was a prerecorded address by President Bush who hoped we enjoyed our BBQ. (Not very impressive after Bremer's talk.) One thing I have noted about Bremer - there is very little bad press on him. The consensus seems to be that he has performed extraordinarily well considering all the adversity. Last week, I had dinner with a high ranking Brit from their defense department. As we were discussing the semantics of dessert (the Brits refer to all desserts as "pudding"), he pointed out UN Special Envoy Brahimi (the high ranking UN guy sent to help form the new government) as he was wandering around looking for a place to eat his substandard fare. Too bad he didn't join us. Starting last week, we are now required to search our vehicles for IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices). That is, one has to inspect the undercarriage and pop the hood. I've now done this on a number of occasions. I no longer live in a tent but in a building. Definitely a safer bet against incoming rockets, RPGs, and mortars. I also have only one roommate and he is my age. Life is getting better. One can even go up on the roof and get a good view of Baghdad. The Tigris River is pretty full and there are several vacant buildings dotting the horizon. Sometimes, one can hear firefights off in the distance. I often times try to catch the call to prayer - very beautiful and haunting if caught at the right time of day. The most amazing part is seeing all the traffic flowing back and forth across the river. This city is still very much alive despite all the uncertainty and violence. Less than a month now until the CPA dissolves and Iraq is declared a sovereign country. No one knows yet what that means. Uncertainty is the rule of the land. Some say the violence will increase throughout the month. Let us hope they are wrong. Christian (Comment on this)